Tuesday, August 9, 2011

A Few Final Thoughts

Ginger and I and families all agreed we had a fantastic trip! Lotus Travel did an excellent job, with only a few small suggested improvements. The itinerary and travel arrangements (transportation, hotels, and restaurants) were well executed, and the tour guides good to excellent. We enjoyed the small travel group size of six families. The families got along really well, and all the girls became quick friends. The girls were also great travelers, handling the rigors of this trip exceedingly well.
On a personal note, the orphanage visits were very beneficial and instructive for both Elizabeth and Rebecca, and visiting the key cultural and historic sites of China was excellent! The trip affirmed their pride in being Chinese, but also strengthened their belief that they are now really (spoiled!) Americans. The age range of 9-12 is the perfect time for this trip, as the girls are very impressionable now. I believe the trip was invaluable for them, and as the years pass, they will be able to put this experience in better perspective.
Lastly, I want to take this opportunity to thank my dear friend Bob for enabling our family to make this wonderful trip. Thank you very much, it was terrific!

Hong Kong To New York/JFK and Boston - Friday, July 15, 2011

Our Cathay Pacific flight left at 9:30am and was to arrive at JFK 15 hours later. Once again, the flight left on time, and we were duly impressed with the service and comfort of the flight (another new Boeing 777-300ER). The 15 hours actually went by fairly quickly! The girls were terrific, fully engaged with the extensive in-flight entertainment, good food, and sleeping in quick catnaps.
We arrived in NYC, around 1pm EST, it still being Friday, July 15th. Our flight to Boston did not leave until 4:30pm. We were all getting very weary now and could not wait to get home. We arrived in Boston at 6pm (6am Hong Kong time), and quickly retrieved our luggage and took a taxi home. Elizabeth and Rebecca were asleep in the taxi within 2 minutes. We were home 30 minutes later. Elizabeth went straight to bed, but Rebecca and I gamely stayed up until 9:30pm, in order to begin our transition to EST. Rebecca’s first thoughts being home were how she could now drink water from the faucet, she would be able to eat a garden salad the next day, and she would not have to eat Chinese food for quite a while!
Amen!

Nanchang To Hong Kong Via Guangzhou - Thursday, July 14, 2011

We left the hotel at 7:30am for our 10am flight from Nanchang to Guangzhou. The traffic out of the city was chaotic and crazy – a game of “Chinese Roulette”. But we made it safe and sound.
As our guide obtained our boarding passes to Guangzhou, our children quickly were surrounded by a group of curious travelers, several taking pictures. Our girls became upset at all the attention and we had to forcefully ask the unwanted travelers to move on.
Then we learned that China Southern Airline was not able to provide us boarding passes from Guangzhou to Hong Kong, so we would have to fend for ourselves without a translator (eventually the airlines gave us “proof” that we had paid for the later flights, so that the boarding pass would not be difficult to obtain in Guangzhou). Despite now being part of mainland China, traveling to Hong Kong is still treated as an international destination. So, this meant we would have to go through emigration to exit Guangzhou, and through immigration when we entered Hong Kong. A lot more lines, bureaucracy and time spent. We were tired and cranky, but tried to remain upbeat, as we were heading home!
We finally arrived in Hong Kong at 5pm that evening. We dumped our bags at the Regal Airport Hotel (a lovely hotel, connected to the HK Airport, and only a 10 minute walk to the Cathay Pacific ticket counter), and headed to a nice Italian restaurant at the Airport. After several glasses of Chianti, Ginger and I and the girls headed back to the Regal Hotel, and went to bed.

Yongxiu - Wednesday, July 13, 2011


The Gloria Hotel was where I stayed ten years ago when I adopted Elizabeth. I had many memories of my week and half stay there. While it has been updated, it still looked pretty much as I remembered. I reminisced with Elizabeth about our time spent in this hotel. It was great for both of us to talk about it.
 
We left the hotel at 9am to drive to the Yongxiu Social Welfare Institute, located in Yongxiu city/county in Jiangxi Province, about 50 minutes from Nanchang. As we approached Yongxiu City, Elizabeth became very quiet, as she observed the surroundings of the place which could have been her home if I had not adopted her. The city of Yongxiu has a population of around 300/400 thousand people – very small by Chinese standards.  Its main activities are growing rice and fishing. The Gan River is an important tributary of the Yangtze River, the longest river in Asia (and third in the world). The orphanage is located on a very tiny side street in the poorest section of the city. It overlooks the Gan River, and was rebuilt in 1999, by a European foundation, in conjunction with Save the Children, when the previous orphanage (originally built in 1983) was destroyed by the 1998 Yangtze River flooding.  The orphanage is set up with 5 to 6 suites; where a 24/7 caretaker is in charge of 5-6 children in a baby room.  Each suite has the baby room, a kitchenette, a bathroom/tub room, and a living room/play area with a TV. This set-up is meant to convey a sense of a small family unit, an idea developed by the European Foundation which funded the rebuilding. There is a large common indoor playing area and an outdoor see-saw and seagull slide. There is a garden area and a pagoda-style gazebo on the Gan River. Also part of the Social Welfare Institute is an old age home. Many of the senior citizens come and play with the orphans; a very beneficial set-up for both groups. The orphanage had around 33 orphans in 2001, and only 20 orphans currently. Most of the orphans are special needs children, some with cleft lip/palate, and others with more severe and non-correctible afflictions.  250+ children have been adopted from this orphanage over the years.
When we arrived at the Yongxiu SWI, firecrackers were set off in order to welcome Elizabeth (Jiang Yong Tong) “home”. A red banner was stretched above the front door, welcoming Yong Tong’s return. A group of people – the orphanage Director (a woman named Deng Lan Xiang), the Assistant Director (a man named Du Chun Sheng), and another official (a woman named Dai Zhi Hong), plus several caretakers, and senior citizens from the old age home next door, clapped and greeted Elizabeth. Elizabeth was very pleased and happy at the welcome. Then the Director and other officials, along with our guide Helen, were ushered into the conference room area. Watermelon, bananas and water were provided for our visit.
Mr. Cai, the Director at the time of Elizabeth’s adoption, has since retired. Elizabeth’s primary caregiver, was identified in pictures provided to me at the time of her adoption. So, were some other orphanage people. However, all of the people identified, have since left. Director Deng told us of the visit a few years ago of Jiu Jiu (now Allison Corbett), who was Elizabeth’s best friend at the orphanage. Allison’s mom, Kristin, is my good friend, who now lives in Maine, and who we will visit in August. Kristin and I have worked hard to keep the two girls connected throughout the last ten years. The Director was aware of this continued connection, and was very thankful for it. She said that Kristin also referred to this special bond between our girls. The Director also showed me the many pictures I supplied the CCAA (the Central Chinese Adoption Agency in Beijing) as part of our post-adoption follow-up over several years. The pictures were of Elizabeth from 20 months (when I adopted her) to age 4, and included pictures of our former home in Charlestown, MA.   
I then got to review Elizabeth’s file. There was no note left with Elizabeth, nor an indication of her actual birth date or birth name. But, I discovered several earlier photographs of Elizabeth as a baby and toddler. These were delightful, and I took pictures of these pictures. Everything else in the file I already had, except for a picture of the woman who found Elizabeth at the gate of the orphanage. The Director told me that the file notes from the previous Director, Mr. Cai, indicate that Elizabeth’s nanny really loved and spoiled her. The notes also say Elizabeth was very bright, social, outgoing, and spirited. She was also said to have a temper, and had to be left alone on a chair in order for her to settle down!! These are apt descriptions of Elizabeth today!
We then went to view the suite where Elizabeth lived until she was adopted by me at 20 months. A shy little 3-year old girl stayed by Elizabeth’s side as we toured the facility. In the caretaker’s room was one crib and a medium-size bed (like a toddler bed) that appeared to belong to a 5-6 year old boy. In the baby crib was a 2-day old baby, found the night before at the orphanage gate. Elizabeth was found in the same spot, but at 4 days old. Elizabeth was fascinated by the baby’s tiny size. She asked me what would happen to her. I said she would be adopted, but it was uncertain whether she would stay within China or be adopted internationally. I did not enter a second baby room, but I could see that the children in the cribs were older than toddlers and were restrained. Again, my quick tour seemed to corroborate the reports that there are few healthy babies available in the orphanages now, but many special needs children. We saw several children with clef lip/palate; happily, with the first level of repair work done. The Director pointed out two older special needs children, probably 13/14 years old, who were babies when I last visited to adopt Elizabeth in 2001.
We then went outside, to see the outside play area – there were the seagull slide and see-saw depicted in the pictures I received of Elizabeth. We also saw the lovely view of the Gan River. When I was here last, all this area was dirt, as no landscaping had yet been done around the new building. It was now green, with many plants and flowers, and a path leading to a gazebo overlooking the Gan River. We took several group pictures, with the little 3-year old holding Elizabeth’s hand. Prior to the photos, Elizabeth was given a keepsake, a red thread necklace with a jade carving of a rabbit, indicating she was born in the Year of the Rabbit. It was lovely, and Elizabeth was quite pleased!
We gathered our things, and headed to our vehicles, as the orphanage Director and Assistant Directors were taking us to lunch. Before we left, I took pictures of Elizabeth at the entrance of the orphanage and at her finding spot by the gate.
Lunch was served in a private room of a restaurant nearby. Rebecca and I politely ate a small sampling of the food, but Elizabeth steadfastly refused to eat any food but the white rice. Our hosts toasted us several times with “gan bei” and kind speeches. Several of the men in the group were drinking a type of liquor, and their faces were quite flushed. They kept filling my glass of beer, and I was getting a little “buzzed” myself!
After lunch, we went to the local appliance store to look at refrigerators. The orphanage visit fee I had paid, some of which went back to the SWI, and the additional amount I had given directly to the SWI as a gift, appeared to be enough for the Directors to purchase a medium size refrigerator.  The refrigerator was purchased, to be delivered to the SWI later, I was heartedly thanked, and my two girls were photographed with Assistant Director Du in front of the gift. We were very pleased to be able to answer one of the SWI’s needs.
I took one final picture of Elizabeth with Director Deng, and Assistant Director Du, we said our goodbyes and then headed back to Nanchang. Elizabeth said that she enjoyed her orphanage visit very much, and felt satisfied with what she had learned. She also stated that she was glad I adopted her, and that now she lived in the U.S.
While waiting for my friend Ginger and her daughters to arrive back at the Gloria Hotel, we toured around the hotel premises and reminisced with Elizabeth. We met a group of 9 Canadian families from the Toronto and Montreal areas, who had adopted their little Jiangxi girls, after a 5-year wait! I had waited for what seemed like a long 17 months in 2001 when I received Elizabeth, and 11 months for Rebecca. It was wonderful to see the formation of so many new families.
Ginger and her girls arrived, they dropped off their luggage, and we headed to the nearby Kentucky Fried Chicken to eat dinner, and to discuss our respective days. Hannah’s orphanage visit had also gone very well, and they got to meet the woman who fostered Hannah for nearly 10 months.

After dinner, we went to bed, as we were leaving at 7:30am to head to the Nanchang Airport, and start our voyage home to Boston! 



Firecrackers At Orphanage Arrival

Welcome Banner






New Elizabeth Baby Photo




New Elizabeth Baby Photo











Children At Orphanage When Elizabeth Was A Baby




Elizabeth's Baby Room



  

New Elizabeth Toddler Photo
 

Suite Kitchenette










 

Suite Bathroom/Tub
 


Suite Living/Play Room


Elizabeth and Seagull Slide


Elizabeth and See-Saw
 

Gazebo


View of Gardens, Gazebo and Gan River 


Orphanage Staff With Elizabeth, Me, and 3 Year Old


Elizabeth with 3 Year Old


Elizabeth At Finding Place - Front Gate



 
Elizabeth and Welcome Banner


Mr. Du and Girls With Refrigerator 



Assistant Director Du, Director Deng and Elizabeth 

Temple in Nanchang From Hotel Window












Tuesday, August 2, 2011

Yangshuo To Nanchang - Tuesday, July 12, 2011

We started out at 7:30am from Yangshuo to catch the 10am flight from Guilin to Guangzhou. In Guangzhou, we waited for our flight to Nanchang for over 3 ½ hours beyond the scheduled take-off time. At one point, it looked like we might not get to Nanchang for Elizabeth’s and Hannah’s orphanage visits due to bad weather!! We were freaked-out, to say the least, as this was the primary reason we were making this trip. We were all loaded onto the plane, then we were all asked to unload and wait in the passenger lounge for another hour. Luckily, Ginger noticed that the jetway sign no longer listed Nanchang as the plane’s destination and she ran to the flight attendant to learn that they had already given the final flight call and were about to close the jetway door! They had never announced this in English, so we were oblivious. They closed the jetway door right after we boarded the plane.  Finally, the monsoonal rain cleared, and we eventually got to Nanchang around 8pm (original departure time was 4pm!). Our family just had to get to the Gloria Hotel in downtown Nanchang 45 minutes away, while Ginger’s family had to travel another 3-4 hours by car to get to Hannah’s orphanage city! Boy we were beat, but we made it!

Guilin to Yangshuo - Monday, July 11, 2011

After breakfast at the Sheraton Guilin (fantastic!), we headed to the Li River to board a boat for a 4 ½ hour cruise to Yangshuo. The scenery was incredible! Due to the summer heat, the haze softened the landscape somewhat. I had previously seen the scenery in the cooler month of October, 1987, when the air was clearer and the impressions more sharp. Nontheless, the landscape is very beautiful and lush and romantic. Along the river we saw local fisherman in their conical hats, fishing with the help of the trained flightless cormorants, tethered to the fisherman’s boat. The cormorants dive into the river and return with fish in their beaks. We also saw water baffalos either grazing along the riverbanks or taking lazy afternoon swims. Local merchants in small motorized rafts would hitch themselves to our small cruise boat to sell fruit and other items. It was all so picturesque!!
We landed at Yangshuo, a small town of about 150,000, set among the karst mountain scenery. This is a tourist town, with five 5-star hotels ( the same number as in Guilin, a city of 1.5MM). After looking at the various shops, we went on a small golf cart (a little bigger than the U.S. version), to visit a local farmer, and the beautiful rice paddies. Yangshuo is populated by several of the minority ethnic groups that live on China’s southern border with Vietnam – the Zhuang, the Dong, the Yao, the Miao, and the Tong, all with colorful dress and customs. These people look and dress differently than the majority Han people who make up 85% of the Chinese population. Many of the minority youth have left this region, to make their fortunes in the biggest cities in China (including the largest city in China (and the world), Chongqing, with 33 million people!) The population is largely composed of older people. At the 600 year-old farmouse we visited, several generations of older people were resident -  a 65-year old man and his wife (churning tofu from its bean base), and their 85+ old parents. The family had lived in this farmhouse for six hundred years!! On the walls were pictures of Mao Tse Tung, his Red Army soldiers, and pictures and portraits of the previous generations. The farmhouse was very spare and basic. But, it had its wok, small refrigerator and 1960’s era TV!!
Then on to view the rice paddies. The miles and miles of rice paddies are seeded by hand with individual seedlings. There are two plantings a year. The rice is then cut by hand, or with water buffalo and plow, and then shelled. What back-breaking work. China is the largest rice-producer in the world, and is self-sufficient.
That night Ginger, myself and girls stayed in Yangshuo to attend the colorful Liu Sanjie Impression Show. The rest of our tour group headed back to Guilin, and we exchanged addresses and said our goodbyes. The Liu SanJie Impression show was created and directed by the Chinese filmmaker, Zhang Yimou, the creator and director of the opening and closing ceremonies of the 2008 Beijing Olympics. The show depicts the tale of Liu, the third daughter in a fairy tale of a minority ethnic family - it is meant to show aspects of her life and is acted/depicted by a cast of 600 minority people against the lit background of several of the karst mountains overlooking the Li River. It is held outdoors. It is very colorful and dramatic, and, except for the extreme heat, and constant talking of the audience, very beautiful. We all enjoyed it, but we were practically melted by the end of the performance. Then home to bed.

  
Li River WIth Water Buffalo



Our Girls on Li River, With Friend Anne

Li River

Local Merchant Coming To Boat











Karst Mountains on Li River

Karst Mountain Scenery


Karst Mountain Scenery

Li River Scenery

Tour Mates Paul + Cynthia

Li River Scenery













West Street in Yangshuo

Churning Bean Curd To Make Tofu

At Farmhouse, Pumping Water

Living Room Of Old Farmhouse

Pickled Snakes and Bugs For Eating

Showing Wok In Kitchen


Girls In Front Of Farm Utensils


Guide Andy Among Rice Fields


More Rice Fields



Girls on Yangshuo Bridge and Li River



Pool At Yangshuo Hotel

Monday, August 1, 2011

Chengdu to Guilin - Sunday, July 10, 2011

After a group photo, including our wonderful and lovely tour guide, Alice, 5 of the six families headed to the Chengdu Airport and flew a few hours south to Guilin (the other family went to visit their daughter’s orphanage in Fuling). Guilin is located in Guangxi Province amid the beautiful karst mountains. This is said to be the most stunning landscape in all of China, and it has been celebrated over the centuries by Chinese painters and writers. The countryside is a very lush green, with rice paddies everywhere.
After a lunch of Guilin’s famous rice noodles, we headed with our guide Andy to explore the Reed Flute caves in the afternoon. This is an enormous series of caves, with stalactites and stalagmites and other outcroppings forming various fanciful shapes and lit by various colored lights. Then in the huge center of the cave, a light show was provided. The kids loved this!
We then exited the cave to find out our bus’ airconditioning was broken, so we had to head to the hotel in 100+ degree heat inside (and outside) the bus. As a result, we missed visiting the Guilin Art Museum, where the girls were going to again try calligraphy and also learn about landscape painting. But, we did not really mind, as we were all so overheated, that we welcomed with great joy the beautiful, 5-star Sheraton Guilin. This hotel was filled with all the American luxuries a 5-star hotel could provide – soft beds and down pillows, lovely rooms, free WiFi, and a sumptuous breakfast. We never wanted to leave it!
We had an excellent Chinese dinner that night in a really elegant restaurant in the redeveloped tourist section of Guilin. Then back to the hotel and bed before our trip down the Li River the next day.

Reed Flute Cave

Reed Flute Cave

Elizabeth, Rebecca and New Friend Anne 

Guilin Night Life

Chengdu - Saturday, July 9, 2011 PANDA DAY

We left for the Chengdu Panda Breeding and Research Center at 8:15am. It was a 40 minute drive. The Panda Research Center is quite beautiful. It was built to mimic the pandas’ natural environment. There are about 1,600 wild pandas in the world, 85% of them are located in Sichuan Province. Chengdu is the capital of Sichuan, and the Panda Center we visited is just outside this city of 6 million people (10 million including the suburbs). The famous Woolong Panda Center is several hours away, is more remote to get to, and it was impacted by the recent Sichuan earthquakes. The Chengdu Research Center is a Chinese project developed with the help of U.S., British, and Australian research and monetary support.
We saw about 10 adult pandas, eating bamboo, climbing trees and lazing about. Then we saw about 5 baby pandas (under 12 months old) climbing trees and frolicking about. I then paid a fee for each of Elizabeth and Rebecca to hold a baby panda (an 11-month old, 48.5lb, female named Ya Yun). A photographer at the research center took about ten photos of both girls alone with the panda, and several with them together with the panda. Great photos, which I will have printed as gifts for my family.
We also saw the Red Panda, a smaller variety of panda, which looks like a very cute raccoon. The visit was enjoyed by everyone.
We then went to lunch and ate traditional spicy Sichuan food. It was delicious – the best meal yet! Then off for an hour walk around Old Chengdu. A very colorful maze of streets, with arts and crafts and food to eat.
Then, a quick dip in the pool for the girls. Then, on to visit one of Chengdu’s main open air food markets. It was great for photos and the girls got an eyeful! Various rows of different Chinese vegetables, hanging meat, pork with feet attached, flopping fish quickly killed and displayed with heads on, turtles, frogs alive one minute, then banged against a table to kill them, live chickens with throats slashed as people bought them, others where the blood was drained, and feathers plucked. Already killed chickens with long legs in the air, various animal organs on display, and food to go, including roasted chicken and grilled fish, both with heads on! I took many pictures. Then we bought some fresh noodles and dumplings for tonight’s dinner of Sichuan hot pot.
The hot pot dinner was terrific! Hot, spicy broth for the adults, and mild broth for the children. One placed many meats (pork, beef slices, duck), noodles (dumplings, noodles, both thick and thin, tofu strips), vegetables, quail eggs, etc. into the respective broth and cooked them up to 5 to 10 minutes, before popping them into your mouth! The girls loved cooking the various items in broth. Everything was delicious, and a nice change from the more bland items we had been eating until then. After hot pot, we all went back to the hotel, to bed.
 


Eating Bamboo

Our Lovely Guide Alice





Group In Tree

Rebecca With Ya Yun

Rebecca and Elizabeth With Ya Yun

Elizabeth With Ya Yun


Entrance to Hu Hui Supermarket

Leechee Nuts

Inside Market - Beautiful Vegetables

Chickens Ready to Buy

Pig Snouts and Chicken To Buy

Hot Pot Dinner

Girls Gather For Farewell
Girls With Guide Alice In Background
 
Panda In Tree

Eating Bamboo The Lazy Way



Red Panda

Rebecca and Elizabeth at Entrance